Tartinery, Je'taime

Tartinery (downstairs) Photo from the Hungry Roach

It's been described both as the best spot for a solo diner to lunch and an awesome place for a date.

Its philosophy seeks to capture the best of the past and merge it with the best of the modern.

Its aesthetic is New York City sleek and Parisian charm.

Tartinery is a place where paradox results in wonderfully unique dining experience.  I recently checked out the newly opened "modern bistro" on a weeknight for my friend Alex's birthday.  Its name represents the restaurant's primary specialty: the tartine.

Having spent much of my education studying the French language (with a special eye for food, of course), I was surprised to have never heard of this authentic Parisian treat, which can can be described as a classic and gourmet open-faced sandwich served on a razor-thin slice of toasted bread. Think of it as the French version of bruschetta  - though it's more of a main course than an appetizer.

Tartinery serves an array of classic French combinations.  There's the Croque Monsieur: cooked ham chiffonade, gruyere, bechamel; the Rosbif: cold roast beef, herb mayo, and oven baked potatoes; the Steak Minute: filet steak, caramelized onions, and old style mustard; and, for the more daring, the Tartare: finely chopped raw beef, onions, capers, egg yolk, Dijon mustard, Worchestire sauce, parsley, and ships.

Tartine Tartare, Photo from Serious Eats

In other words, Tartinery is a place where the menu begs to be read in its entirety.  And a perfect place to go with a group and sample more than one.

Though the menu caters to lovers of pork and beef, the quality of the vegetarian options more than make up for the lack of choice.  I ordered the butternut squash soup to start ($8); its creamy, rich consistency perfect for a brisk fall night.  I then shared a "Crottin" tartine, which had goat cheese, frizée, fresh thyme, honey and olive oil.  It was excellent.  The bread was perfectly crisped.  The ingredients were exquisite and fresh. I was surprised to actually enjoy the frizée - what I usually consider a finicky lettuce.  But drizzled in the olive oil and honey, its flavor and texture was the perfect complement to the creamy goat cheese.  For $11.50 it was a steal. It should also be noted that Tartinery offers an array of dessert tartines (I simply must go back to try the banana and nutella.)

Butternut Squash soup, Photo from Serious Eats

 Something that took me by surprise - the tartines are served on sourdough. Yes, what's often thought of as a West Coast thing is actually a traditional French bread; and Tartinery gets theirs flown in from the renowned Poilâne Bakery in the famous Parisian district of Saint- Germain des Prés. Poilâne has been churning out sourdough loaves since 1932; In the 1970s, Salvador Dali would apparently order objects and sculptures from the bakery made of bread. (Disclosure: I'm actually not a huge fan of sourdough, though I've admittedly never had the French kind.  But thankfully, you can substitute it for multigrain.)

Tartine Choco, Photo from Tartinery

Tartinery is bound to be a hit.  (In fact, just a few days after I went they were filming an episode of The Real Housewives of NYC at the same table we were sitting at.)  And the space, like the sandwiches, suits different tastes and purposes.  The counter on the ground floor, which looks into the kitchen, is perfect for lunch diners, while the downstairs area is more cozy and intimate, with exposed brick walls, a fireplace, and a live tree growing out of the center of a table. Plus all of the waiters are young Frenchmen.  What's not to love?

Tartinery, 209 Mulberry St. (Nolita)
Open daily, 12PM-Midnight
Tartine & Wine Hour: 5-7 PM
$13 prix-fix lunch (tartine + soup/dessert)